CHAIR TIGHTENING

First, remove anything you can on the chair: Bottoms, braces, and supports. This is for wood chairs only, the upholstery chairs cannot be done unless the soft material is removed. Chairs that are caned, rushed or splint are difficult to glue if the seats are goo and the legs of the chair are held tight.
You will need rubber mallet or arm strength to loosen or separate any fitting that is loose. Try to get the chair legs and the rungs out of their holes, remove the old glue that might remain on them and then you can use any good wood glue and apply it to the joints. I overuse the glue in the holes and then wipe it off later. You must now use wood clamps at each rung or leg to secure them in place. Use small pieces of wood between the clamp jaws and wood surface. Clamps need to be used to ensure proper seating. Rungs, dowels, and legs that are tapered must be pulled back into position ;and clamped. Remember to wipe The excess glue as you proceed. Repeat this process as you draw the clamps tight on each chair leg, rung, or dowel. The chairs that are bare wood, with no finish on them, make sure you have removed all the excess glue by sanding before you start refinishing. I usually let my chairs sit and dry for a minimum of twelve hours before removing the clamps.
If If the loose joints won't come out of their holes for gluing, you have two choices to proceed. (Never use screws to secure the rungs, legs. or dowels.) One: you may drill four small holes around the rung, leg, or dowels at an angle with the hole opening, then force glue into the holes. (Sometimes this is a temporary fox.) Two: There is a product available that expands the wood fibers and if there is any give to the joints, the very thin liquid will penetrate into the opening. This works well in many cases. (The product has thin, medium, and thick consistencies.)
Good luck tightening those chairs and using them again.

Refinishing Gun Stocks

Gun stocks or grips are a relative easy project, unless you have one of the old military stocks, which requires more sanding.
First take the gun stock and remove the old finish by using a liquid remover which can be purchased at a paint store. (Warning: Read the directions for applying the remover, needs ventilation as you work with the product.) Sometimes if there is a small amount of finish left on the stock, remove the remaining finish by sanding with number 80 grit sandpaper.
After you have the finish removed, (if you have used the liquid remover) wait 24 hours and sand the gun stock using number 120 grit sandpaper. Use number 180 grit sand paper for final sanding before you apply the finish coat.
If you prefer to stain , use a color of your choice. Apply one coat of stain with a small brush, q-tip, or a soft cloth. If uneven coloring appears, touch up with a q-tip or cloth and feather or blend the colors. Let this dry for 24 hours. TIP: Put a screw in end of gun stock and attach a piece of string to it and hang the stock upside down. This makes it easy to handle.
There are two choices to refinish: Lacquer and tung oil. If you use lacquer, use a sealer first on the gun stock. Use a soft cloth, brush, or a spray for applying sealer and the finish.) If lacquer is used apply three coats and allow at least two hours between the coats. Let the gun stock dry for 24 hours.
Use product 3M-405N-320 sand papers to remove roughness and a tack cloth to remove particles. Apply two or three more coats of finish, you decide if there is enough finish coats, then wipe any air bubbles with a 3M ultra fine 4-inch by 5-inch pad.
If you use tung oil, no sealer, sometimes not is desired, just apply coats until you reach the desired look for the gun stock. (Apply this with a soft cloth, repeat with several applications.) Wood needs to be completely dry before applying the next coat. If you want a more glossy sheen, heat the tung oil before applying. (Warning: Do not get it too hot, it can burn you if you using a cloth to apply the tung oil.) Tung oil normally does not raise the grain thus eliminating sanding. If air bubbles do appear, use the 3M-405N-350 sanding pads and the tack cloth on the gun stock.
Varnish and polyurethane may be used for finishes but they are not my choice for refinishing gun stocks.
Handgun grips may be refinish;ed using the same procedures described above but be very careful sanding with the checkered grips. It doesn't take much sanding to damage the checkering or to make the handgun grips so small that they will not fit the gun properly.
Enjoy refinishing your gun stock or the handgun grips and you can proudly say,"I did it myself."